92 David Schildknecht - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

"Abbatucci's 2011 Gris Imperial Rose represents the debut of his project allowing Sciacarellu vines to go un-pruned. One obvious result of this approach is an alcohol level of only 11.5% that translates into a striking sense of levity and clarity. Imagine a mouthwatering, fragrantly herb-infused chilled consomme of fresh tomato, cucumber and shrimp shell reduction. It's hard to conceive of a much more subtly interactive, minerally saline and saliva-including, delicate, long-finishing, or consummately refreshing little wine. And wait until you start playing around with this amazing value at the table (which I'm confident you can do for at least the next 6-9 months)! As for Abbatucci's argument that vines did fine without pruning for millennia so why not once again, it strikes me as daft - and perhaps after a few years of such non-treatment, these vines' vinous potential will flag. For now, though, all I can do is shake my head at how distinctly and deliciously Abbatucci's fantasy has been realized. (Please note: This wine is legally a mere 'Vin de France' not entitled to carry a vintage on its label. But on the optimistic assumption that I shall be reviewing future renditions in need of distinct identities in the eRobertParker data base, I'm referencing the vintage. Only a few serious merchants are likely to be allocated this wine, and stocks will sell-through quickly, so you’ll know what you’re getting.)"