2009 clos riffault sancerre les boucauds
"Young Stephane Riffault (son of this estate's namesake) and his thirty-some steep plots on chalk and flint around Sury-en-Vaux (north of Chavignol) represent an exciting and as yet under-recognized source of Sancerre, and there can be no better proof of that than his 2009 Sancerre Les Boucauds, a wine that - unlike most Sancerre in this hail-ravaged, precipitantly ripe vintage - genuinely tastes as though it is not much higher in alcohol than the 13% to which its label fesses-up, and that displays real elegance, lift, and refreshment. White currant, white peach, lime, grapefruit, peppermint, and nettle in the nose engender expectations of juicy palate stimulation that are not disappointed, although there is a lushness and drippingly ripe honeydew, Persian melon, and citrus - along with undertones of nut oils - that certainly bespeak the ripeness of 2009. The tenacious finish here sends shivers down my spine with its tart currant, zesty citrus, pungent herbal intensity, and intimation of invigoratingly stinging nettle hairs. This memorable beauty and fabulous value is likely to remain scintillating and succulent for at least 2-3 more years. In truth, though, I have no direct experience with the aging of Riffault's wines, though I am definitely looking forward to remedying that deficiency! I can hardly wait to taste his two other cuvees from this vintage, which he tried unsuccessfully to supply me with as tank samples in time for this report."