2009 Leitz Riesling Alte Reben Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels
"The Leitz 2009 Rudesheimer Berg Kaisersteinfels Riesling Alte Reben â€“ for more about whose unusual geological and historical background I encourage you to consult my notes on previous vintages â€“ once again finished fermenting in legally halbtrocken territory, and once again is complex and compelling. Gentian, smoky black tea, and subtle herbal suggestions on the nose then grace a palate lusciously and invigoratingly informed by salt-tinged pineapple and peach, further accented in its long, saliva-inducing finish by myriad, pungent citrus zests. Somehow this comes off as texturally creamy even as its zesty and crystalline mineral impingements lend tactile stimulation. Similarly, while this palpably extract-rich Riesling displays generous amplitude, it also finishes with focused grip. Furthermore, as often as I returned to it over a nearly four hour period, it kept ever more firmly riveting my attention. I would look for at least 12-15 years of fascination. (The first Kaisersteinfels bottling was from vintage 2001, and I have not recently revisited one of my two precious bottles.)"