2006 Clos De La Roilette Fleurie
"Fernand and Alain Coudertâ€™s Clos de la Roilette is the source for some of the most profound and ageworthy wines of Beaujolais (not that they neglect to be refreshing and fun to drink young). Their "Cuvee Tardive" (which transcends the price ceiling for this report) is meant â€“ as the name implies â€“ for keeping your hands off for a few years, but even their regular bottling of 2006 Fleurie will be worth following over the next two or three at least. Notes of leather, wood smoke, and forest floor mingling with the ripe cherry and raspberry in the nose signal that something more complex and mysterious is under foot than you will experience in all but a tiny fraction of Gamay-based wine. Generous juiciness on the palate is allied to a slightly grainy, palpable sense of extract and fine-grained tannin, while notes of toasted nut, raw beef, moss, and wet stones well up and add complexity to the wineâ€™s long finish."