2005 Step Road Chardonnay
"Bright yellow. Mineral-driven citrus, pear and smoked meat aromas, with strong leesy, buttery nuances; this hardly smells New World, unless you're talking $60+ renditions. Silky in texture and strikingly fresh, with excellent purity to the complex flavors of pear, quince, iodine, white truffle and clove. Blind, I'd be smack in the middle of Chassagne-Montrachet. Easily the best-value chardonnay I've tasted this year, with the clarity and depth to squash plenty of wines that cost more per bottle than a case of this-and I say that as a white Burgundy fool."