90 Mark Squires - Robert Parker's Wine Advocate

The 2012 Atlantis white (also from Santorini but in the Cyclades appellation) is tank-fermented and aged. It is a blend of 90% Assyrtiko, with 5% each of the typical blending grapes on the island, Athiri and Aidani. I had not been overly impressed with this bottling at one point. Yet, in back-to-back vintages, it is showing exceptionally well, its performance well-exceeding its price point. There is really no reason it shouldn’t excel, the winery’s modest (compared to its upper level wines) notwithstanding. Don’t let the screwcap turn you off. It is a bargain in the lineup and on the island. Stefanos Georgas, a winery representative, said to me that the vine age for the Atlantis white “averages 50 years and are our young vines.” (He’s really not kidding, but that is certainly not the norm for wines in this price level.) Grant that the blend means that this is not the biggest and most powerful wine in the lineup. However, it is no slouch, it has more personality than most and a high level of charm. Nice and ripe on opening and in its youth, it settles down with some air and shows considerable tension and grip on the finish. There is lurking power underneath in this wine’s youth. It feels full in the mouth for a Santorini at this price level, with the solidity to go with the aromatics. There is a slight lemon-lime tinge on the finish. It likely won’t last quite as long as some of the big boy wines, but it is quite impressive at the moment. It should be irresistible this summer. Drink now-2017.