"The 2006 LOUREIRO 'ESCOLHA' (ANDREZA) is 100% Loureiro, one of the common grapes in the Vinho Verde region. The 'Escolha,' in essence is a special selection. While much of the current excitement in Vinho Verde comes from the 100% Alvarinhos, this bottling, among others, proves that Alvarinho isn't the only single varietal worth seeking out. As is typical of this varietal, it is crisp, aromatic and refreshing, but it also shows a certain toastiness on opening, perhaps because it spent four months on the lees. As it warms up, the toast fades and its grassy component becomes rather more obvious, as well as its ripe and succulent fruit. It shows that it has personality and finesse, as well as lots of flavor. It manages to be at once crisp and fruity, a feat not always easily managed. The fruit is hardly shy or subdued. Although elegant and bright, it never seems thin or simple, and it registers 12% in alcohol. It is a lovely wine, with a lingering, flavorful finish and a surprisingly rich texture despite the crispness. I am betting that this will hold well a couple of years, but I suspect it will always be more interesting when it is freshest. Drink now-2010. Most Vinhos Verdes have a reputation for being light, simple, easy quaffers, to be drunk within a year, crisp and refreshing, but little more. There is a trend, though, to making more serious wines, including 100% Alvarinhos, as demonstrated by the selections reviewed in this issue. Just for your reference, and to avoid as much confusion as possible, the front of the label indicates only the proprietary brand name 'Andreza.' This Vinho Verde winery is, however, commonly known to the public and its importer by its owner's name, 'Anselmo Mendes,' which producer name appears only in tiny print on the back, and then only as the full name of Manuel Anselmo Alfonso Mendes. Both of the following wines are unoaked."

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