"The Grapes of Roth 2002 Merlot is already slightly amber at the rim (whatever that may or may not indicate about its future evolution, on which I hesitate to speculate without precedent) and is visibly unfiltered. The nose is offered a stunning amalgamation of fresh plum, dried cranberries, soy, Syrah-like bacon fat, beef marrow, blood pudding, and iodine. Had I been told it were a 7- to 9-year-old Right Bank Bordeaux, I might well have believed it, and for all of its young age and its layered profundity, it is improbably drinkable. The palate is marked by expansive flavors of black and red fruits, meat, and minerals. The wine exhibits plushness and elegance, offering a seemingly paradoxical sense of weightlessness allied to enormous richness and palate saturation. Its finish is superbly long, with deep marrowy, minerally undertones, faint plum pit bitterness, and persistently bright, juicy, slightly tart berry fruit."

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